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The passage to the South Island was serene. Winds were blowing but waters were at peace. I’m fairly confident in saying that it was the best 3.5hrs I’ve ever spent onboard a ferry. I enjoyed a decent burger from the ships restaurant which thankfully stayed firmly put in my stomach and I gawked from the railing as we pottered through the Marlborough Sounds on our way to Picton.
Departing from the ferry I took Queen Charlotte Dr west. It followed the coast weaving its way like a game of snakes and ladders. The evening sun started to soften and I felt a real joy and gratitude for all I had. I spent the night at a well equipped DOC site next to a glassy blue river and continued west to Nelson.
It being a Sunday I thought I’d pop into a local church, the one I chose turned out to be running a Christmas service. I’d evidently missed the dress code memo as once I’d taken my seat and started to look around I saw rows of flamboyant Hawaiian shirts, It seems like this is the Kiwi equivalent of the Christmas jumper. The service began and we jumped right into some upbeat full band carols, teeing off with Feliz Navidad, anyone actually a fan of this song? After the carols the pastor spoke well and the service finished with Feliz Navidad again… There was a bring and share lunch going on after which I was kindly invited to. Once my plate had emptied and conversation come to an awkward silence, I excused myself and went for a wander around the town.
My impression of Nelson was positive. A population of around 55,000 the city (feels more like a town) center was busy with life on a Sunday afternoon. Some lounged around sipping coffee while others perused a pop up market, inevitably going home with an item they didn’t know they wanted. Before arriving I’d felt Nelson was a place I could settle for while, however after leaving church and not meeting anyone around my age, I realised I couldn’t stay. At this point in my travels I was pretty desperate to make some friends, to find a community I could be apart of. Having not made any friends at the church I couldn’t figure out where else I could meet anyone. In today’s society I think we are lacking in places to meet up and socialise (third spaces), maybe it’s just me and my shy nature but I do think there must be a better option then having to go to a pub and drink alone hoping to meet someone.
With the decision made I returned to the van and ventured further west looking for somewhere to camp for the night.
I followed State Highway 60, hugging the coast as I skirted around Tasman Bay. As I saw Kaiteriteri come into view on the map I remembered someone inform me that there was a Beach worth stopping at there, so with nowhere to be and the sun still high in the sky I pulled off to Kaiteriteri. As had been described it was a beautiful beach, however clearly I wasn’t the only one aware of this. The surrounding hills were blotted with batches (Kiwi term for a holiday house) and it appeared most of the inhabitants were at the beach. I changed into some swimming trunks, melting my feet on the asphalt in the process, and went for a brief swim. With a sense that enough had been achieved that day I left Kaiteriteri returning to SH60 and wiggled up the switch back of Takaka Hill Hwy.
My destination was a small car park at the top of the ridge that functioned as a parking spot for a very average viewpoint (maybe I have been spoilt with spectacular views?) I parked up, read a little and enjoyed dinner. Then the time came to use the nearby long drop toilet, the experience is still branded into my brain. In all of my few years upon this earth I have never used a grimmer toilet; on entering the yellow plastic box you were greeted by hundreds of dead flies that covered the floor and hung in cobwebs from the ceiling, this was tolerable, it was the smell that wasn’t; I had to cover my nose and mouth with my shirt, holding my breath taking short breaths only when essential; the whole time I balanced on the edge of the chunder precipice aware that one breath too deep would cause disaster. On returning to the van I noted that the smell was impregnated into my clothes, I changed and wanted a shower. The next day and I returned to SH60 where I chugged further along to Paines Ford.
Just outside of Takaka town you’ll come across Paines Ford, an absolute gem of a spot and one of the top climbing destinations in New Zealand featuring a great array of hard limestone sport climbing. 200m from the car park there is a tranquil tucked away swimming hole on the bend of the river; the water is refreshing, clear and clean and the temperature will most certainly wake you up!
As I approached the swimming hole I began to hear some gentle instrumental music; an Irish lad around my age (sorry forgot your name mate) was sitting on a natural rock seat, an area of the limestone face that had been eroded away, playing the guitar. We spoke for while exchanging stories of our travels, then I let him be and wandered around the corner where I found a private shallow cave. I went for a swim, failed to figure out how to get to the rope swing and then strolled back to the van were I picked up my book (Moby Dick) and Bible, returning to the quite cave I spent a bit of time in peace and prayer.
An hour or so later I left my spot and bid farewell to my Irish mate who was playing a beautiful song; inquiring of the artist I found out it was Will Ye Go Lassie Go by The Corries, worth a listen if you haven’t heard it.
Once back at the van I thought It would rude to leave without at least seeing the climbing routes so I went to investigate. From the path the crags are not visible, only signs that occasionally point into the bush indicate there is something to be explored. I trudged uphill through the bush intrigued as to what I was going to find. Then the incline stopped and a vertical concrete gray rock face came into view; dotted with interesting features and holds it looked like great fun! Not having the sufficient equipment nor a buddy to climb with all I could do was imagine and pull on a few low level holds in classic climber fashion. I returned to the van and drove on into town.
Tākaka is a small town described as “the main centre of Golden Bay”; filled with cafes and art shops the town appears to survive on tourism. There is a strong bohemian atmosphere to the place and it seemed to be a popular backpacker destination.
Although I live out of a van most of the time I am not your classic hippy so after a brief lap of the high street I got back behind the wheel and drove deeper into the Golden Bay heading for the area of Patons Rock.
At this point I felt like I’d ventured far enough along SH60 and was eager to turn around; before I did though I wanted to see the bay. Pulling up to a public car park right on the water front I left the van and walked a couple paces down to the sea. After gazing across the vast bay for a little while I felt satisfied. The sun was past it’s highest point and with a 3.5hr drive ahead I promptly got the wheels spinning again and departed for Blenheim.